San Sebastian, Donostia, the jewel of Pais Vasco, and the eating destination of Europe!
After many trips over the years to this city, and throughout the region, I guarantee the restaurants below are an absolute hit! Give the recs a read, and if you make it to the city, give them a try-- the best eating in Europe, is a set of strong words never used lightly.
Bon Appetit!
The Ultimate Restaurants-- The Duo you Cannot Miss!
Ganbara
Hailed by Anthony Bourdain as the best restaurant in the world, and touted by acclaimed multi Michelin awarded Basque restauranteur Juan Mari Arzak, this amazing kitchen holds that title well! Line up at least 30 minutes before opening (they open about noon) to guarantee yourself a seat at the bar-- it is well, beyond the worth of the wait, and you won't regret watching the owner (pictured) and staff prepare the food right before your eyes. Once you walk through the doors at opening, your eyes will be delighted by the bright colors and fresh aromas peeking your imagination, chorizos in the oven, blanched peppers steaming. To the far side of the restaurant, rotating cornucopias of vegetables (tomatoes, beans, onions) and fresh mushrooms overflow in the afternoon and deplete into nothingness by the end of the night. In front of my seat, my vision is often drawn to the intricate cold pintxos (their famous being the Russian dressing ones) and the other quintessential tapas delights: chorizos, pan con jamon, and croquetas to boot. The menu is always rotating for what's in season, but the item you do not want to miss is Trufadas a la Plancha (grilled mushrooms). These are no ordinary mushrooms, and each season you will experience a deferent menagerie. The piping mushrooms, are often accompanied by a runny egg and an ever decadent foie. Other notable dishes of the seasonal variety include fresh razor clams, squids, and the tomate ensalada is too die for-- all local, and the best you'll find anywhere in the Basque Country or the world at large.
If there's one restaurant to eat at in this lifetime, at least once, is it this one.
Of course, I only stumbled upon Ganbara on a whim while in line for another, equally classic, and differently perfect restaurant: Bar Nestor.
Bar Nestor
Bar Nestor is well known for its exclusive service, and seemingly short line, but don't underestimate it. They only serve 2 dishes a day. One "Spanish" (Obviously, Basque!) Tortilla at noon, another service at 7pm, and their dinner service of one of the finest steaks in the city follows tortilla divvying promptly. Over the past year, I attempted the line 3 times, in three different months, and only once was successful in procuring the famous tortilla. The first time I was turned away, I stood behind Hans Zimmer's own violin soloist, who was also turned away. We therefore went to Ganbara, that experience was well worth it. The second time I showed up, only to find that the Nestor family was on holiday (a very common occurrence at any Spanish restaurant). The third time, I arrived an hour before sign up (which was at 11). Only 16 slices are sold per meal, and I was lucky (and greedy, but rightfully!) to get slice 13 and 14 (You'll understand once you try it!). Hueff. After so long, I can tell you, I'd fly back to eat it again in a heart beat.
The service is greeted with the pomp and circumstance that would accompany a high school graduation. The steel garage doors are slowly reeled up, as the gasping audience, all 8 of us (note, everybody else got 2 as well aha!), tried not to lose our saliva, gazing at the beauteous golden round as the chef kicked open the door and place it, genteelly on the counter. Our names called up one by one, we marched through the awning, turning in our receipts and collecting our diplomas, err tortilla. While nearly hard as completing a degree, it was far more enjoyable and tasted at least 3x more delightful. It was warm, and substantial, not overdone but perfectly moist. each bite was pure bliss I wish would last forever. As we 8 sat to eat our tortillas, the waiter came by and asked whose really hungry. None of us were, but we had to oblige as he pulled at big 2/3 pound raw steaks on plate. Each customer picks which cut they're drawn too, and the waiter heads to the kitchen to cook it up for us. I split one with a dutch girl, and we went to town on the meat. An older couple across from me noted the hungry looking boy (myself), and gave me half theirs as well. All in all, the generosity, the thrill of the hunt, the delectable nature of each dish-- Bar Nestor is worth going well out of your way and coming again and again to try it. But just show up 45 minutes before time, you'll get it, and you'll thank me later.
Fermin Calbeton Kalea
AKA Fermin Street, is one of my favorite blocks for eating in Old Town, San Sebastian. Bisecting the oldtown, this street is directly adjacent to the old fish market, but don't get stuck down there (it's underground), and head straight to Bar Sport
Bar Sport
Don't let the name fool you, this is more than just an ordinary sports bar, in fact, I think it is the best true pintxo bar in the city! When I come to San Sebastian, I can rarely go one night without it-- it's that good.
Bar Sport feels like a second home, each time I visit over the years it is always the same workers. It almost feels like I'm growing with them. But there's also an intense hustle and bustle in this spot, that's the sport of it-- pushing your way into the front, speaking clear, and getting your order across. The guys are friendly to varying degrees, like a real sports bar, but that is its charm and the food is always perfect. In the evenings I go in for the Foie a La Plancha, their classic dish regaled by all. Best foie in the city, no doubt. It dwarves the bread it comes with, and is overpowering with juicy, rich full fat flavors. While the ethics of foie are highly controversial, its development involves the forced feeding of geese (basically, until they implode), it has a historic importance to the region and is protected by the French government. If you're going to try it, try it here where its regulated to and overseen by the government. I wouldn't eat it in the states, but as I'm abroad my gut says live and let die and do as the Romans do. It is a part of the experience, and the human connection is well worth it too. Other great dishes at this acclaimed Pintxo bar include their mini hamburger, hot chorizo, croqueta de jamon. It is a true Pintxo bar with quick services and unbeatable prices, for the full experience go on in hungry and get your named called out by the boys in the back with dish after dish!
Borda Berri
Located next to Bar Sport, Borda Berri is the one stop shop for Suckling pig. There are other great dishes include the fresh tomate ensalada (tomato salad), Kokotxa de Bacalao al Pil-Pil (Cod Cheeks in Pil-Pil sauce) and seasonal squid ink rice dishes. The suckling pig, AKA la Kebab de Costilla de Cerdo is the end all be all here. Picture below it is a fresh, basted substantial pork bone cooked with Mediterranean-inspired flavors. Always a must try.
Bodegon Alejandro
Overseen by Michelin restauranteur MartÃn Berasategui, this is the place to try the Michelin level experience without Michelin prices. I stumbled upon this place in my first week, after I too became tired of the pushing and shoving in Pintxo bars, I wanted a relaxing sit down. I got more than I bargained for when I walked down the stairs into this cool basement tavern. The rule of thumb is, when they have the prix-fixe tasting menu for 50 euros-- go for it. I was delighted by the series of courses they came out, each highlighting a different element of traditional basque cuisine from honoring the sea with cram souffle to connecting to the land, with pan con tomate. The presentations were dazzling, but none more so exciting than the cerdo, the pork loing. I was greetign by this stone platter and carved knife. Neolithic in origins, the stone servings were an attempt to call back to the ancestral practices of the Basque ancients, how they cut and ate. It was really great fun cutting the meat with the arrowhead, but if that weren't enough, the pork and golden potatoes were to die for. At the end of the meal, socked away in a tree trunk was the bill and little acorn like desserts. So cute and so good. It saved me the trip to some of the major destination Michelin menus (which were way out of my budget), but gave me the styles and flavors the Basque Country is known for.
Calle 31 Agosto
Many classic Tabernas are located on Calle 31 Agosto (August 31st Street), the most historical street of the old town. During the Peninsular Wars, the city had been taken by Napoleon. The British and Portuguese sieged the city to liberate it, however things took a dark turn. While victorious, the enraged British and Portuguese militants engaged in heavy drinking and proceeded to ransack and pillage the town, burning it to the ground. Everything was destroyed that night, except for the northernmost street, which was spared on the 31st of August, because it was on this street the militants intended to spend the night. After the miliary men washed through, San Sebastian was given the choice of how to rebuild their fare city. Rather than design a new city, they elected to rebuild the city to the exact specifications of the crowded medieval town that once was. To this day, the tight streets persist and are renowned for holding the most bars per square meter than any city in the world!
La Cuchara de San Telmo
Being located on Calle 31 Agosto, means that Cuchara de San Telmo is located on one of the oldest buildings in San Sebastian. Marked by old stones, and hand formed bricks, these leaning street towers clench Monte Urgull (Urgull Mountain) and are cradled by the Convent of San Telmo, now a museum, but it is from the building La Cuchara takes its name. The Cuchara, or spoon, takes it's other name from how it differs from the convent, where others left to pray, it is her folks come to indulge in fine Basque delicacies.
The classic dishes are the Carrilleras de Ternera (Braise Veal Cheeks), the Cotxinillo (Suckling pig), and the Tara de Queso de Cabra (Goat Cheese Cake). I never make a visit without the Carrilleras, tender and warm, with a delicate, slightly sweet flavor. The Tarta is made of a rich creamy cheese, and all plates are decorated with a Michelin level sauce finish. Originally a true pintxo bars, nowardas La Cuchara is pushing towards the imagery of fine dining. Previously, each dish was available as a Pintxo (2-4 euros in 2022), presently (2023) most are offered as larger plates (raciones) for slightly higher prices (10 euros). The expansion towards larger plates is both the desire of the restaurant for more cash flow, and an act of catering towards tourist desires of more, mas, most! Don't supersize us, and let us continue the tradition of pintxo hopping, going bar to bar, trying one piece, and onto the next!
Gandarias
Gandarias is my go to for easy, opening night spot before a long night's pintxo crawl. Always busy, push your way to the front of the bar (do not be shy). If you don't put yourself in the front, firstly they'll know you are a novice tourist, and secondly-- you won't be so lucky to get a bite!
They're most famous for their large pintxo, the Brochette de Cordero, a strong tasting lamb skewer, always delicious and cooked to order! I also frequently go for the duck breast skewer, and their premade counter pintxos are always on point.
The Food in the Basque Country, is not the only beauty of the land, but for each visitor it cannot be overstated how magnificent it is. The diverse interests from the bustling pintxo bar to the regal restaurant are just a few examples of the types of meals you can experience. In rural environments, where homecomings and street events offer new possibilities, there are even more options to try.
Give it a try, and let me know if you have any questions, or if you've tried these places already!